Evaluation of the effects of 10% and 30% gluconolactone chemical peel on sebum, pH, and TEWL.

BACKGROUND: Gluconolactone (GLA) exhibits antioxidant and moisturizing effects. It also presents soothing effects, protects elastin fibers from UV-induced degradation, and improves the function of the skin barrier. AIMS: Evaluation of skin parameters such as pH, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum levels before, during, and after a series of applications of 10% and 30% GLA chemical peel in a split-face model. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The study involved 16 female subjects. Three split-face procedures were performed using two concentrations of GLA solution applied on two sides of the face. The skin parameters were measured before treatments and 7 days after the last procedure at four measurement sites on either side of the face, that is, on the forehead, around the eye, on the cheek, and on the nose wing. RESULTS: Measurement of sebum demonstrated some statistically significant changes between sebum levels in the cheeks after a series of treatments. The pH measurement showed that the pH value was reduced after each treatment at all measurement points. The level of TEWL after treatments was significantly lower around the eyes, on the left forehead, and on the right cheek. There were no significant differences between the use of different concentrations of the GLA solution. CONCLUSIONS: The results of the study show that GLA has a significant influence on lowering skin pH and TEWL. GLA also has seboregulatory properties.

Split-face evaluation: Gluconolactone plus oxybrasion versus gluconolactone plus microneedling. The effects on skin parameters.

BACKGROUND: The application of polyhydroxy acids and alpha-hydroxy acids to the skin is often used in cosmetology. To enhance the effect of gluconolactone chemical peeling, a combined method including water-oxygen oxybrasion or microneedle mesotherapy can be used. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate skin parameters such as hydration, sebum, pH and TEWL after application of a 10% gluconolactone chemical peel in combination with oxybrasion and microneedling. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Twenty-one Caucasian women participated in the study. A series of three split face treatments was carried out at 1-week intervals. Oxybrasion was performed on the right side of the face and micro-needle mesotherapy on the left side. A 10% gluconolactone solution was applied to the entire face. Before the first and third treatments and 2 weeks after the last treatment, skin parameters were evaluated. Photographic documentation was also made before and after the treatment series. RESULTS AND CONCLUSION: Evaluation of skin parameters using Courage & Khazaka 580 Multi Probe Adapter probes (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Cologne, Germany) showed an increase in hydration and a decrease in sebum, pH and TEWL for both treatments. There were no statistically significant differences between the treatments. Combining chemical peeling of gluconolactone with oxybrasion and microneedle mesotherapy is a good method to seal the hydrolipid barrier and increase skin hydration.

Objective, measurable assessment of the elasticity of the skin around the eyes following the carboxytherapy treatment.

BACKGROUND: Carboxytherapy is one of the most popular procedures used in dermatology. The treatments are known to be minimally invasive and highly effective for various skin disorders. Therefore, the research carried out in the paper is purposeful and addresses an important area of aesthetic therapies. AIMS: Objective, apparatus-based assessment of the effect of carboxytherapy on skin elasticity around the eyes. PATIENTS/METHODS: The study included a group of 39 Caucasian individuals aged 35-55 years. Participants were subjected to a series of five carboxytherapy treatments of eye area at weekly intervals. The Cutometer measuring probe was used to assess skin elasticity. Additionally, photographic documentation was out using the Fotomedicus system. RESULTS: In this study, statistically significant increase in R2 parameter was found as the result of applied treatment. This parameter is considered to be the most important indicator of changes in skin elasticity. In 29 out of 39 subjects, the carboxytherapy treatment significantly improved skin tension and elasticity. Such therapy may also exert a beneficial effect on flexibility since in 28 participants the favorable change in the R7 parameter was visible. CONCLUSIONS: The objective analysis of the impact of carboxytherapy treatment on parameters determining skin elasticity revealed that this therapy can be used as an anti-aging method in the eye area. Obtained results are in agreement with other biochemical, histological, and photographical documentation analyses of the effect of carboxytherapy on skin, performed by independent researchers.

The correlation between the severity of symptoms and the thickness of the fat fold in cellulite-affected areas-A pilot study.

OBJECTIVE: The aim of the study was to assess the correlation between the cellulite severity and the thickness of the fat fold. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The study comprised 62 women aged 22 to 26 years. A palpation and visual evaluation of cellulite severity was performed on the basis of the Nurnberger and Muller classification, and the thickness of adipose tissue (fatty tissue) was measured with the use of a skinfold caliper. RESULTS: The H0 hypothesis was rejected in favor of the H1 hypothesis (p < 0.001) in the chi-square independence test; therefore, a relationship between the thickness of the adipose tissue fold and the severity of cellulite was confirmed. Moreover, on the basis of obtained results, the hypothesis of the independence of the studied variables (p < 0.0000001) was also rejected. It can be concluded that there is an association between the thickness of adipose tissue and the degree of cellulite. Moreover, the values of the obtained coefficients are greater than zero (the correlation is positive), and the obtained Spearman's R (0.89) and Kendall's tau (0.79) values indicate a very strong correlation between the studied variables. CONCLUSIONS: On the basis of obtained results and their statistical analysis, we can state that there is a relationship between the degree of cellulite and the thickness of the fat fold-the degree of cellulite increases with the increase in the thickness of the measured fat fold.

Ferulic acid - A novel topical agent in reducing signs of photoaging.

Continuous production of reactive oxygen species, induced by UV radiation, is one of the main mechanisms contributing to skin photoaging. Therefore, the use of novel superior antioxidants, which ferulic acid belongs to, is an innovative treatment option. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of 14% ferulic acid peel on skin hydration, topography, the level of melanin, and the severity of erythema, in people with skin photoaging symptoms. Twenty women aged 45-60, received eight treatments of chemical peeling in 1-week intervals. Efficacy was measured using The Multi Probe Adapter (MPA) Systems (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany). The measurements were taken before, 8, and 12 weeks after the first treatment. Additionally, the photo documentation was made with Fotomedicus (Elfo) and VISIA® Complexion Analysis System (Canfield Scientific, Inc.). The objective evaluation showed statistically significant improvement in all measured skin parameters p < 0.05). The best results of skin hydration and melanin level were observed right after the end of the series (p < 0.001). The best improvement in erythema reduction was noted a month after the last treatment (p < 0.0001). At the control, untreated point none of the probes showed statistically significant changes. In conclusion, a series of treatments with 14% ferulic acid peel has a significant bleaching, erythema-reducing, and moisturizing activity. The results achieved by apparatus, are reflected by photo documentation. The effects achieved during a series persist over time.

Two superior antioxidants: Ferulic acid and ascorbic acid in reducing signs of photoaging-A split-face comparative study.

The assessment of the signs of photoaging in mexametric (melanin and erythema index), corneometric (hydration level), and cutometric (elasticity) examination after the treatment with ascorbic acid and ferulic acid. This study was conducted in a group of 20 women aged 39-61 (mean age 54), with Fitzpatrick skin types II and III. The study included a series of eight treatments performed once a week. Two layers of peeling, based on 14% ferulic acid (left half of the face) and 12% l-ascorbic acid serum (right half of the face) were applied. To determine skin parameters: moisture, elasticity, melanin level, and erythema intensity, the Multi Probe Adapter Systems (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany) were used. Additionally, before and after the series of treatments, photographs were taken with the standardized photographic system Fotomedicus (Elfo®). The results of mexametric measurement for melanin level and erythema intensity were statistically significant (p < 0.0001) for both acids. Slightly greater lightening of the skin was demonstrated for ascorbic acid. The results of corneometric measurement of hydration level for ferulic acid and ascorbic acid were both statistically significant (p < 0.0001). First beneficial changes in improved elasticity could be observed as early as after 8 weeks but the increase in flexibility grew with time (after 12 weeks). These changes affected both acids and all measurement points. The changes in parameters were highly statistically significant (p < 0.0001). Based on the conducted research, it is not possible to state which of the tested acids is more effective in reducing the symptoms of photoaging. Both acids (ascorbic and ferulic), which have a high antioxidant potential, affect the measurable parameters of the skin: pigmentation (melanin index), erythema (erythema index), skin hydration, and elasticity.

The eye area as the most difficult area of activity for esthetic treatment.

Eyes area is of high importance in esthetic dermatology. This area is one of the most difficult for procedures. Skillful treatment can significantly improve the quality of patients' life. The aim of the study was to present and differentiate a variety of changes observed in the eye area and factors stimulating their appearance and enhancing intensity. This article also presents treatment methods in the field of esthetic dermatology, which are used in the in the following problems: eyelid edema, fatty bags under the eyes, vascular circles under the eyes, pigment shadows, periorbital melanosis, structural shadows, tear trough, wrinkles and loss of skin elasticity and dry skin around the eyes. Their correct diagnosis requires the knowledge of the characteristics of the skin structure within the eye area and also the mechanisms responsible for disorders in its functioning. Many patients and people performing procedures, limit the problems within eye area to a generalized division into shadows, swelling and wrinkles under the eyes and probably to one selected form of therapy. However, as it has been shown in this review, the variety of defects is large. Actions in case of problems with skin around the eyes require a systemic, multi-specialist.

Efficacy of fractional laser, radiofrequency and IPL rejuvenation of periorbital region.

The purpose of this study was to assess skin elasticity, the reduction in the number and the depth of wrinkles and changes in the other skin defects (bags under the eyes, dark circles under the eyes, skin hyperpigmentation in the ageing eye area following the use of non-ablative fractional laser, bipolar radiofrequency and intense pulsed light). Moreover, the study was also comparison which device brought better results than the others. This study included 71 patients (66 women, 5 men), aged 33-63 years (the average age was 45.81 years) with skin phototypes II and III. Twenty-four patients received five treatment sessions with a 1410-nm non-ablative fractional laser in 2-week intervals, 23 patients received five treatment sessions with a bipolar radiofrequency in 1-week intervals and 24 patients received five treatment sessions with an intense pulsed light in 2-week intervals. The treatment was applied on the skin in the eye area. The Cutometer (Courage + Khazaka electronic) reference test was used as an objective method for the assessment of skin elasticity. A questionnaire was used to compare baseline state with changes that occurred after the series of treatment sessions. The results of cutometric measurements of R2, R6 and R7 parameters and the results of questionnaires indicated that non-ablative fractional laser therapy, bipolar radiofrequency and intense pulsed light improved skin elasticity. Of the three treatments, the most significant percentage improvement in the R6 parameter was demonstrated by non-ablative fractional laser therapy which gave better final results than the other methods (p < 0.0001). No other statistically significant relationships were found between RF and IPL. In the (subjective) opinion of study participants (questionnaire), all used methods resulted in the reduction of the amount and the depth of wrinkles. However, they did not observe significant impact of individual treatment method on the signs of skin ageing, including discolorations within eye area, bags (fatty hernia), dark circles (vascular/pigmentary) and oedema (predisposition to water retention). Non-ablative fractional laser therapy, bipolar radiofrequency and intense pulsed light improved skin elasticity and the reduction of wrinkles. The most significant improvement of elasticity was demonstrated by laser therapy. It seems necessary to expand the group with the effect of individual treatments against bags and dark circles under the eyes.

Shikimic acid in the light of current knowledge.

Shikimic acid (SA) has been mainly used in the pharmaceutical industry for production of drugs, however, recently it has also appeared in the world of cosmetics. So far, there have not been many publications on cosmetics containing SA or research studies on the compound, especially those that would involve testing cosmetic products on subjects. The main source of SA is star anise. The recommended concentration of SA in cosmetic preparations ranges between 1 and 5%. The pH of a 5% solution of SA in water is 3. SA at a concentration of 5% has a similar exfoliative effect to that of 50% glycolic acid. It shows antiviral, exfoliating, deodorizing, anti-acne, anti-dandruff, whitening and moisturizing activity. It also regulates the amount of secreted sebum, moreover, it has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, hair-growth stimulating, anti-aging effect and antifungal properties.

How has the pandemic lockdown changed our daily facial skincare habits?

BACKGROUND: During the COVID-19 pandemic, Poland implemented widespread closure of beauty and cosmetic services to control the virus spread. AIMS: The aim of this study was to investigate the impact of the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic on home face care of women and to analyze changes that have occurred in their daily habits. PATIENTS/METHODS: An online survey was completed by 412 women living in Poland during the spring lockdown. Questions addressed changes in face care during the COVID-19 pandemic. RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS: Our questionnaire showed that during the lockdown, women were more interested in face skincare, more often followed the procedure of full home skincare. And after implementing the changes in skincare, they saw a good impact on their skin. The significance of the Internet also increased considerably, not only as a source of knowledge in the field of cosmetology but also as a thriving market selling cosmetic products.

Corneometric evaluation of skin moisture after application of 10% and 30% gluconolactone.

BACKGROUND: Dry skin, caused by improper care or genetic conditions, can affect people of all ages. Skin hydration is determined its lipid content, which inhibits water loss from the epidermis, as well as other substances such as polyhydroxy acids and gluconolactone that can bind water. The aim of this study was to evaluate skin hydration after the application of 10% and 30% gluconolactone solution in a split face model. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Sixteen healthy women were qualified for the study. Three split face treatments were performed, with 10% and 30% gluconolactone solution applied to two sides of the face. Skin moisture was measured before each treatment and a week after the last treatment at three measurement sites on either side of the face, that is, on the forehead, around the eye and on the cheek. RESULTS: Corneometric measurements showed a significant increase in facial skin hydration after gluconolactone treatment. No significant differences were observed between the application of 10% and 30% solution. CONCLUSION: Gluconolactone is a moisturizing substance which works well in dry skin care.

Comparison of hair reduction by intensive pulsed light device and combined intense pulsed light with a bipolar radiofrequency.

BACKGROUND: Photoepilation has become a very popular epilation procedure in esthetic and cosmetic practice. There are some types of lasers and other light sources used for epilation. AIMS: The purpose of our study was to compare an IPL device with an IPL plus RF in one device, using a within-patient, right-left controlled study design. PATIENTS/METHODS: Thirty-three patients completed four treatment sessions and the follow-up period of the study. RESULTS: Hair reduction was effective after the first treatment, but similar results were achieved using the IPL system alone, and with IPL combined with RF. The degree of hair reduction increased after the following treatments, but the two methods yielded similar effects. Three months after the last treatment, some hair had regrown in both treatments, the combined IPL with RF treatment gave significantly better results than the IPL treatment alone. CONCLUSIONS: In conclusion, IPL and IPL-RF are effective hair reduction therapies, yielding similar effects in patients with skin phototypes II or III. However, IPL-RF can be more effective in long-term observations. These therapies are also safe and regarded be quite comfortable in this population.

Effect of oxybrasion on selected skin parameters.

BACKGROUND: Oxybrasion is one of the types of microdermabrasion. This method removes a superficial epidermal layer with the use of a stream of 0.9% saline solution and compressed air. AIMS: The assessment of skin hydration, sebum, pH, TEWL (transepidermal water loss), and pigmentation using oxybrasion. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The study involved 27 female subjects. Five treatments were performed every 2 weeks using the oxygen microdermabrasion. Measurements of the skin parameters were taken before each treatment and 2 weeks after the last procedure. The measurement points were on the forehead, the cheek, and on the petal of the nose. RESULTS: Sebum measurement showed some statistically significant differences between the sebum level on the cheek and the nose after a series of treatments. A higher hydration level was found at all measurement points. There were no statistically significant differences in TEWL parameter. pH measurement showed that the pH value decreased after each of the procedures. Most of the pigmentation measurements differed in a statistically significant way. CONCLUSION: Results of the study indicate that the oxybrasion treatments increase the skin hydration and they have a significant influence on the decrease of the skin hydrolipid coat and pH.

The influence of topical 5% tranexamic acid at pH 2.38 with and without corundum microdermabrasion on pigmentation and skin surface lipids.

Tranexamic acid (TA) has anti-hemorrhagic effects; however, oral administration has been found to decrease hyperpigmentation. The aim of the work was to compare the effects of treatment with 5% tranexamic acid in combination with corundum microdermabrasion on skin pigmentation, redness, pH, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum level and hydration of back surface and dorsal surface of the hand skin. Six treatments were performed every week on the back surface and both dorsal surfaces of the hands of 12 subjects. The entire back/both hands were treated with 5% tranexamic acid at pH 2.38; left side of the back or left hand were also subjected to corundum microdermabrasion. Skin parameters were measured using the Courage & Khazaka 580 Multi Probe Adapter. Clinical photos were taken using the Fotomedicus system. Significant differences between treatment methods were observed for melanin, erythema and pH. In addition, the two methods differed significantly with regard to the amount of sebum, TEWL and the level of moisture in the skin. Both methods gave similar acidic pH. Summing up tranexamic acid causes a significant reduction in epidermal melanogenesis, has a significant impact on the level of skin hydration, lipids of the epidermis and maintaining the proper TEWL. TA has a significant effect on reducing skin redness.

Comparative study of 15% trichloroacetic acid peel combined with 70% glycolic acid and 35% trichloroacetic acid peel for the treatment of photodamaged facial skin in aging women.

BACKGROUND: Photoaging (extrinsic aging) is caused by environmental exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Superficial and medium-depth chemical peels with trichloroacetic acid (TCA) are performed to reduce wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, dryness, and erythema caused by photoaging process. AIM: The aim of this study was to compare the efficacy and tolerability of 15% TCA peel against the combined 70% glycolic acid and 35% TCA for the treatment of photodamaged facial skin. PATIENTS/METHODS: Forty female patients with types II and III of Glogau photoaging scale were divided into two groups of twenty subjects (GA/TCA and 35% TCA). The GA/TCA group was treated with combination peeling of 70% GA and 15% TCA, whereas the 35% TCA group was treated with monopeeling of 35% trichloroacetic acid. Each patient was submitted to five sessions of these peels, with an interval of 14 days between each session. The following skin aging parameters were examined before treatments, before each session, and 3 months after the last application: hydration, elasticity, melanin index, and erythema index (MPA-5; Courage-Khazaka, Germany); and depth and volume of wrinkles (PRIMOS; GFMesstechnik GmbH, Germany). RESULTS: Both peel methods achieved significant improvement in all skin parameters: elasticity, hydration, melanin index, and erythema index. Significant differences between the GA/TCA and 35% TCA groups were found only for hydration and melanin index. GA/TCA was characterized by significantly higher values of the hydration parameter and lower values of melanin index compared with 35% TCA. Combination peel GA/TCA did not cause dryness, edema, or intensive lysis of the epidermis, and the frequency of peel-induced erythema did not increase with the addition of glycolic acid, but with higher concentration of the TCA solution. However, subject-perceived improvements of the 35% TCA peel did not differ significantly from subject-perceived improvements of combination peel treatment. Adverse events requiring intervention or discontinuing treatment were not observed in either group. CONCLUSION: The addition of glycolic acid before 15% TCA chemical peel application significantly enhanced TCA-induced improvement in photoaging parameters (increase in skin elasticity and hydration; reduction in melanin index and erythema index), and subject-perceived improvements. However, 35% TCA peel is more effective in reducing wrinkles, despite a lower tolerability. Both medium-depth chemical peels including 15% TCA in combination with 70% GA and 35% TCA alone proved to be useful for the removal of epidermal or superficial lesions and to improve the texture of photodamaged facial skin (grade II-III Glogau photoaged skin).

The evaluation of elasticity after nonablative radiofrequency rejuvenation.

BACKGROUND: Laxity and rhytides are manifestations of photodamage on the face and chest. Nonablative radiofrequency (RF) is one of the most common procedures used for skin rejuvenation. AIM: The aim of this study was to assess the elasticity of face and chest skin after multipolar radiofrequency. PATIENTS/METHODS: Thirty women, aged 43-68, were included in the study. Twenty women were postmenopausal and 10 were premenopausal. They received 4 treatment sessions with an application of nonablative radiofrequency in 2-week intervals. Biomechanical properties of the skin were measured with the use of a Cutometer. RESULTS: The objective evaluation in a cutometric analysis showed a statistically significant improvement between measurements taken in the pretreatment period and 3 months after the treatment. CONCLUSIONS: The study is an objective confirmation that RF treatment improves skin elasticity. The method may appear to be beneficial for women of any age and skin types. It is a noninvasive treatment with a low risk of complications.

The effect of various primers improving adhesiveness of gel polish hybrids on pH, TOWL and overall nail plates condition.

BACKGROUND: Hybrid manicure is now a popular method of nail care and nail art, which is associated with its durability. Unfortunately, it has an adverse effect on pH, TOWL and overall nail plates condition and has not been investigated in detail so far. AIMS: The aim of this study was to compare the pH and TOWL of the hand nails after using different primers. The effect of application time, breaks between applications and the method of curing and removal on those parameters and overall nail plates condition were evaluated. PATIENTS/METHODS: An evaluation survey was conducted among 116 women. pH and TOWL measurements of the nail plate in 35 women were taken using the Courage & Khazaka. Clinical photos were made using the Fotomedicus system. RESULTS: The measured pH values of the nail plate in the test group with gel polish hybrid on the nails were from 5.50 to 6.65, while after removal of the gel polish hybrid, the values ranged from 5.63 to 6.68. TOWL of the nail plate covered with gel polish hybrid ranged from 2.9 to 33.2 g/m2 /h, whereas after removal of hybrids-from 1.9 to 45.7 g/m2 /h. CONCLUSION: Different forms of acid-free primers maintain a lower pH of the nail plate covered with a gel polish hybrid, while the acidic primer maintains higher values of the nail plate pH. The significant decrease in the nail plate TOWL following the application of gel polish hybrid indicates a reduced loss of water from the surface of the nail to the atmosphere.

Effects of lactobionic acid peel, aluminum oxide crystal microdermabrasion, and both procedures on skin hydration, elasticity, and transepidermal water loss.

BACKGROUND: Topical applications of alpha-hydroxy acids and poly hydroxy acids in the form of peels gained popularity. To enhance the effect of these substances, aluminum oxide crystal microdermabrasion can be used in one procedure. AIMS: The assessment of skin hydration, elasticity, and TEWL after using lactobionic acid in the form of 20% peel and lactobionic acid in the form of 20% peel combined with aluminum oxide crystal microdermabrasion. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The study involved 20 Caucasian female subjects. Six treatments were performed at weekly intervals, using the Split face method-20% LA was used on the left side of the face and aluminum oxide crystal microdermabrasion followed by 20% LA application on the right side of the face. RESULTS: Corneometric measurement showed statistically significant differences between the hydration level for sessions 1 and 3 and 1 and 6. A higher hydration level was found on the side with the combined procedure. Tewametric measurement showed that the TEWL values were different for sessions 1 and 3 and 1 and 6-they decreased. There were no statistically significant differences between the two procedures. The cutometric measurement indicated statistically significant differences between skin elasticity for pairs in session 1 and 3 and 1 and 6. CONCLUSIONS: The results of the study indicate that the combination of LA peel with microdermabrasion increases its moisturizing effect and improves skin elasticity. The use of both procedures also contributed to the decrease in TEWL; however, greater exfoliation of the epidermis in combined procedures resulted in slightly higher TEWL values.

The assessment of the effects of the combination of microdermabrasion and cavitation peeling in the therapy of seborrhoeic skin with visible symptoms of acne punctata.

Objective: The aim of this study was to assess objectively the effects of the combination of corundum microdermabrasion and cavitation peeling in the therapy of seborrheic skin with visible symptoms of acne punctata. Material and methods: The study involved a group of nine women. A series of six treatments with the combination of microdermabrasion and cavitation peeling were performed within facial skin at 10-14 days intervals. Corneometric measurements examining skin hydration level and sebumetric measurements analyzing skin sebum level were made before the series of treatments and after second, fourth and sixth procedure in five facial areas. Clinical assessment of the efficacy of the therapy was performed on the basis of photographic documentation (Fotomedicus). Anonymous questionnaires were used in order to evaluate patients' satisfaction rate. Results: Statistically significant improvement in skin sebum level was observed in all examined areas (forehead p = 0.002; nose p = 0.001, chin p = 0.01, left cheek p = 0.009, right cheek p = 0.007). In case of skin hydration, significant improvement was found only in the area of chin (p = 0.03). 78% of participants estimated that the improvement was in the range of 55-70%, while 22% of participants of 75-100%. The reduction in the amount and visibility of comedones and pimples were demonstrated on the basis of questionnaire and photographic documentation. Conclusions: Combined microdermabrasion and cavitation peeling treatments improve the condition of seborrheic skin.

Lactic and lactobionic acids as typically moisturizing compounds.

BACKGROUND: Recently more attention has been drawn to alpha hydroxy and polyhydroxy acids (AHA and PHA) due to their excellent moisturizing and antioxidant properties. These compounds are very beneficial in terms of both cosmetic and dermatological treatments. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was an assessment of moisturizing properties of lactobionic and lactic acids based on available literature. METHODS: Literature review using scientific databases: PubMed, Medline (EBSCO), Medline Complete, Karger, Springer/ICM, SpringerLink/online, Wiley Online Library. RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS: Through their construction, alpha AHA and PHA are able to bind large amounts of water and act as potent antioxidant agents through inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases and strong chelating properties. Another important characteristic is the maintenance of the epidermal barrier integrity during application of lactic acid (LAC) and lactobionic acid (LA) and thus the opportunity to use them on sensitive skin types including couperose skin.